Friday, October 31, 2008
Halloween in Cambodia
Alright, it's time to crank the jealousy-o-meter up a notch.
Here's how I spent my Halloween. Muahahah...
After departing yesterday from our hotel in Phnom Penh at the crack of dawn, wading through the throning crowds of touts selling english language newspapers, sunglasses, watches, and friendship bracelets (they're not even my friends!) we arrived in laid back beachy Sihanoukville, so named after King Sihanouk. (I think he was the one that liberated Cambodia from French rule, only to screw it up by creating the Khmer Rouge... for some reason Cambodians still like the guy.)
It's a crass touristy place without much hint of tradition. But then, there probably isn't much to be had. The place was built as a sea port 50 years ago and has only in recent years become a tourist place. To give you a hint: As I type this I'm listening to some bad techno music being pumped out by a nearby bar called Pim's and looking straight at a place called "Happy Massage" which is partially obscured by a Tuk-Tuk bearing an ad for Angelo's Greek Specialty BBQ, Taverna & Sports Bar. Sigh...
But anyways, on to the jealousy thing.
Today, being halloween but not actually having any impact on what I did, a bunch of us rented out a boat to tour the nearby Bamboo Islands. And after an exciting entry into the boat (had to wade out to get to it) and a couple downpours (but hey! at least we were wearing our bathing suits!) the weather broke into brilliant sunshine just as we landed on a beautiful tropical island for lunch. Lunch was a local curry (Amok), a fabulous baked fish, fresh salad, and a baguette. And then followed up with a fruit plate full of juicy pinapple and sweet mini bananas. Jealous yet? No? Alright then, continuing on!
Next we took a romp through the jungle. Yes, I did say jungle I'm glad you asked. Beautiful lush dense chittering alive jungle. And other than a bit of foolishness on my part (forgot my sandles on the boat and waded into the jungle barefoot) it was looovely. Though I must say they do grow some mighty huge centipedes here. They're like huge round black jelly worms. But, and I think this goes without saying, less tasty.
After that... yes it keeps going. Now hush, I'm on a roll. After that we broke through the trees into an increadible broad sweeping beach. Sand like golden brown sugar. (But again, less tasty) Blue green waves curling and splooshing onto the shore with puffs of salty spray. And the best part? Completely and utterly devoid of people. That's right, it was just us and some of those weird long necked chickens they've got here. Heaven!
But if that wasn't good enough we hopped back in the boats and headed for another island for some snorkling. Now here I'll admit there was a bit of a downer... The current was so strong it was a real effort to get back to the boat. But while the sights down under the water weren't as fabulous as say Thailand or Mexico, it was still neat to see all the fishes darting in and out between the strange sea grasses and coral.
Then we finally headed out on the long ride back to Sihanoukville. I threw my feet over the edge of the boat (traditional brightly painted Cambodian boat of awesomeness!) to be tickled by the sea spray. I had the sun in front of me, partially hidden by swirling clouds left over from the storms and tossing it's golden rays onto the sparkling sea. It was lovely. And somewhere between gazing out over the twinkling waters of the Bay of Thailand, staring at my sandy toes, and wondering if the local ladies shoreside who constantly harass me for a pedicure might have a point, I found a curious sense of tranquility. The gentle splashing of the water against the boat. The rolling waves. The sun. The sand. Over the last couple days I had been feeling bit disappointed with Cambodia. Too touristy, too commercial, no spirituality, no soul. But here, not in the temples as I'd expected, I found a wonderful sense of bliss. Time was nothing. It was just me, the sun, and the waves.
So. That ladies and gentlemen is how I spent my Halloween. Jealous? ;)
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